Incorrect fitting of forks and front wheel can result in fork binding, increased bushing wear, leaking fork seals and poor suspension performance. Follow this procedure to avoid fork binding.
Clean upper fork tubes and clamping surface of triple clamps with Brake Clean. Install both forks and set fork height within clamps. It is important that fork height be exactly the same for both sides. Tighten top clamp pinch bolts to 18Nm or manufacturers specs.
Torque the bolts on the lower clamps to only 12Nm. Your forks bend sharply at this lower clamp on impacts and this allows your lower triple clamp to flex more and the bushings within your fork to pass through the fork more easily, reducing harshness and feedback to the rider. It is very important not to over torque these bolts!
Install the axle (do not hit the axle with a hard hammer, this mushrooms the end and will result in fork binding) and tighten the axle nut to 40Nm or manufacturers specs. If the axle turns while tightening, tighten one right side axle pinch bolt to hold axle in place. Tighten both left side axle pinch bolts to 10Nm or manufacturers specs.
With the left side axle pinch bolts and axle nut tightened, loosen the right side axle pinch bolts. Take a small flathead screwdriver and carefully tap it into the slot between the two right side axle pinch bolts. This will enlarge the axle hole. You will then be able to grab the bottom of the right side fork tube and push it in and pull it out freely.
With the front wheel pointing straight ahead spin the wheel backwards and pull the front brake on hard. The fork will settle naturally into position on the axle without binding. Remove the screwdriver and tighten the right side axle pinch bolts to 10Nm or manufacturers specs. On bikes with Speedo drives be sure the locating tang is not interfering with the fork alignment. On these forks you maybe better off to spin the wheel forward depending on your bikes design.
Bound forks are a leading cause of premature bushing wear, air build-up, leaking fork seals and fork harshness. All of which can be avoided by following these easy steps.
Be sure to clean fork legs after each ride and dry forks with a rag. Water allowed to dry on fork legs contains minerals that can damage your seals. These minerals build up and act as tiny teeth on your fork seals. Do not use simple green as it contains substances that make your forks sticky.  Then wipe over fork leg with an oily rag, engine oil works best, fork oil gets sticky. This prevents the dust seal from drying out and burning with friction. Late model KTM riders with the wrap around fork guards should consider returning to earlier model fork guards to assist with cleaning and maintaining the sliding surface. Or be prepared to replace seals more often.
Periodically remove the dust seals carefully with a screwdriver between the dust seal and the lower fork tube and clean out under the dust seal. Be careful not to force dirt into the oil seal.
Fork seals should be replaced once a year.
Forks and shocks should be serviced every 30-50 hours. More often if you race or ride in mud, less often if you only play ride. Oil breakdown severely impacts on suspension performance. Fork shims (especially mid valve shims) do wear out and should be checked and replaced as needed.
Bleed air from forks before each ride, front wheel off the ground.

Please contact me for assistance to set up your suspension for optimum performance.